My 100km race round Mont Blanc

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There may be, for my part, no mountain location extra inspiring than the French city of Chamonix, which maybe explains why, a yr after following the world’s best ultra-runners around the Alps’ highest peak as a spectator, I discovered myself again on the Extremely-Path du Mont-Blanc for my very own 100km race.

Curiosity in ultra-running — sometimes outlined as any foot race longer than 50km — has boomed prior to now decade and the UTMB has turn into the de facto world championships. Based in 2003, initially as a 106-mile (171km) race round Mont Blanc, the occasion has expanded right into a week-long pageant that draws main sponsors and a few 10,000 runners to eight completely different races, now broadcast to thousands and thousands of followers all over the world.

Extremely-running, by any definition, is an odd endeavour and the mountain selection can appear significantly merciless. My race, the CCC, is equal to nearly two and half marathons and consists of 6,100 metres of lung-busting ascent over perilous Alpine passes.

Launched in 2006 as a shorter model of the unique UTMB, which usually takes place the next day, the CCC has developed into one of many sport’s most prestigious races in its personal proper — a sought-after problem for ultra-runners all over the world who full gruelling qualifying races then enter a lottery to safe a coveted place.

Opponents at the beginning of the CCC, in Courmayeur, Italy © Paul Brechu

One of the climbs on the course
One of many climbs on the course — typically individuals will do a quick stroll uphill, then run on the downhills and flats © Thomas Bekker

The end result this yr, at 9am on the final Friday in August, was a sea of just about 2,000 skinny runners within the newest ultra-trail vogue — psychedelic caps, skin-tight race packs and futuristic footwear — squeezed on to a tree-lined avenue within the picturesque Italian ski-town of Courmayeur.

Map showing route of the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc CCC race

The identify comes from the three mountain cities the race connects — Courmayeur in Italy, then Champex in Switzerland and at last Chamonix in France. Locals describe the CCC as a “half-turn” across the well-known mountain. The quickest runner, a 28-year-old, Pink Bull-sponsored Swede known as Petter Engdahl, would full the course in a record-breaking 9 hours and 53 minutes. For many it will take greater than double that.

Classical music stuffed the air because the organisers counted us down. Then we had been off: a rabble of runners from 83 international locations winding by means of the city’s slim streets like a herd of vibrant wild horses.

French runner Blandine L’Hirondel
French runner Blandine L’Hirondel out on the course . . .

French runner Blandine L’Hirondel arriving in Chamonix as the fastest woman
. . . and arriving in Chamonix because the quickest girl, with a time of 11 hours 40 minutes

As to why individuals would select to run by means of the mountains for 100 kilometres solely to emerge on the end, nearly a day later, hungry and damaged, I nonetheless can’t ensure. In Christopher McDougall’s best-selling 2009 ebook, Born to Run, he argued that the flexibility to run lengthy distances was a defining attribute of human evolution. At moments in the course of the CCC, I may see his level.

Leaving Courmayeur on the entrance of my wave of runners, I felt euphoric. The city’s fairly streets become a stony monitor after which a sequence of slim switchbacks, climbing greater than 1,000 metres over a handful of kilometres to the primary go, the Tête de La Tronche, at round 2,500 metres above sea degree.

On the high I appeared again to see a path of runners zigzagging up the mountain from the valley backside, united of their mad objective.

Because the race wore on although, over one other 5 main climbs, by means of gorgeous Swiss villages and into the darkish hours of the night time, the moments of euphoria grew to become rarer and the struggling set in.

I made psychological notes as I ran to recollect the highs: the style of cool spring water in a tiny hamlet on the descent from the two,537-metre Grand Col Ferret; the sight of an imposing wood cross in a hillside clearing simply after midway; the joyous French household with a Dalmatian canine who cheered me into the penultimate assist station round midnight.

Clouds loom on the morning of August 26 as the competitors skirt the southern side of the Mont Blanc massif
Clouds loom on the morning of August 26 because the opponents skirt the southern facet of the Mont Blanc massif © Franck Oddoux

The lows had been simpler to recall: a gruelling 700-metre ascent to the Switzerland-France border after 70km once we had already climbed greater than 4,000 metres; the grit that embedded in my elbow after I clipped my drained ft on damaged floor and fell for the primary time; the guttural sound of an exhausted runner groaning within the darkness.

Within the first half of the race I checked my watch frequently and quietly celebrated if I handed one other runner. Within the second half, kilometres and place pale into irrelevance and I centered solely on the hypnotic rhythm of placing one foot in entrance of the opposite.

They are saying ultra-running is as a lot an consuming problem as a operating one as you attempt to exchange the energy you’ve gotten burnt. At every assist station — seven in whole — I refilled my water bottles and plundered the platters of salami, cheese, fruit and chocolate laid out by volunteers. The plain penne pasta served up on the midway level tasted heavenly. Coca-Cola developed a brand new revitalising energy.

When the sunshine failed and the pinnacle torches got here on, I had been operating for 12 hours and the race entered its most surreal part. Descending in darkness to the Swiss city of Trient, the forest appeared to come back alive: shadows moved like individuals, bushes morphed into animals.

By now the help stations appeared like triage tents in a conflict zone, the place zombie runners tended to injured ft and crammed morsels of meals into hungry mouths.

A man on a night-time street holds up his arms in triumph as he finishes a race
Tom Wilson crosses the end line in Chamonix

On the ultimate climb, rising 600 metres up one more sequence of switchbacks to a plateau north of the end, I noticed little aside from the sq. metre in entrance of my ft. Hunched over my mountaineering poles, I watched the beetles and earwigs scurrying beneath me as I climbed up and up.

Then instantly, there it was: the intense lights of Chamonix stretched out on the valley flooring.

I used to be nonetheless greater than an hour from the tip however I now felt lighter as I raced throughout the rocks below a starry sky. The primary metres of the descent on battered legs had been excruciating, however as I obtained nearer the ache of 100km ebbed away and earlier than lengthy I used to be flying by means of the city. I crossed the road at round 3am after 17 hours and 45 minutes, 476th out of 1,727 runners.

Did I get pleasure from it? That’s troublesome to reply. Would I do it once more? Positively.

Tom Wilson is the FT’s performing senior vitality correspondent


Entry to the CCC ( prices €189. To enter the draw for a spot, runners have to finish not less than one 50km or longer UTMB World Sequence race (the system is weighted so the extra qualifying races a runner has accomplished, the upper the prospect they may win a spot by means of the draw). For subsequent yr’s race, runners have to finish their qualifying races and register for the lottery by 31 December. The draw will happen on 10 January 2023.

Tom Wilson certified by finishing the Extremely-Path Snowdonia race in Wales in July; he was a visitor of UTMB Group.

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